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Apply safe vs. bold criteria?
Posted By: Adam Torkelson In Response To: Apply safe vs. bold criteria? (leobueno)
Date: Wednesday, 16 January 2013, at 10:48 p.m.
Magriel's book is one of my favorite books, let alone one of my favorite possessions. :-) I'll give this a try.
Blue has no anchor, fewer points in board, and white has no blots in board so those would mean to play safe. Blue has no blots in board but that is not enough to play aggressively.
So far it looks like we need to play safe. If we are not sure, I think we have to look at other aspects of the position than what is described in the Safe vs. Bold chapter.
Here are some things I think we can consider (and all of these are covered throughout Magriel’s book): 1. White already has his five point made, so our two men back will have more trouble escaping, are more likely to be primed or attacked, and white will have an easier time than us bringing checkers home. That scores another point for playing safe I think. We don’t want to get in a deeper hole. 2. Blue’s midpoint is more advantageous than white’s (white cannot clear the midpoint one man at a time (but can clear both with a double) and so white cannot attack in his OB without leaving a blot on midpoint), while blue can clear his midpoint easily one at a time (and he *needs* to, as the point is currently candlesticked). 3. The most effective checkers working for you on the board are the ones on the 8 point I think. Because they are blocking white’s man on the two point from escaping (Magriel stresses making or keeping points that are 6 points in front of your opponent). So I think making the five point is a red-herring. You would lose your defense on the 8 point and volunteer a direct shot to white’s best number (a six) and also an indirect shot. Very bad. 4. 6/3 4/3 is out of the question. It would volunteer a double direct shot and the three point does nothing to stop white’s men.
So I think hitting is out of the question (for all reasons above, plus it would mean you bury a checker out of play).
I don’t see any decent “running” plays either. 24/21 would not be good because white easily has enough material to blitz you. The blot on the 11 is extremely strong in this position as Magriel would say it is “influencing” the 10, 9, 7, and 5 points (all within six points of the 11)—in addition to the influence of Blue’s midpoint. Blue’s blot on 11 is also bearing on the five point as efficiently as it can. If you played 11/8, then that blot loses its influence and white will gladly play behind it in blue’s OB, despite blue’s midpoint.
Hitting or running anything looks terrible. I think you have to make a point, but not the 23 piont. Magriel clearly states in his book to never make the 23 point unless there is absolutely no other choice. It is always better to stay split. The reason is because your opponent starts the game with a point on the 17, so you are blocking yourself from escaping with your best number (a six). And the 17 is usually held for long periods of time (the majority of the game). In this situation, the one would probably be better played 11/10 since you would be 5 points away from your five point (Magriel stated in his book that if you can’t get 6 away, then try for 5).
I prefer making the 10 point with 13/10, 11/10 because: 1. It is safe, which is required in this case. 2. It makes another point on the very crucial side of the board (my side) and in front of white’s back men. If you played 11/8, then you would still only have three points in front of white’s men. While 11/8 gets you more active builders bearing on the 1 and 2, I think you would be unintentionally postponing a potential prime because you probably be forced to attack those blots before they can escape. If they escape before you prime, then I think 11/8 was a waste. I think a broken prime on this move *now* is much better (just my opinion). 3. While it makes me no longer have a checker bearing in on my five point (six away), it still has a checker bearing in from five points away (again, Magriel stated in his book that if you can’t get 6 away, then try for 5). 4. It keeps the defense on the 8 point. 5. It unstacks a heavy point (the midpoint), but does not forfeit the advantage I have on my midpoint. 6. You maintain “influence” on your side of the board (albeit with stripped points). I think you should always consider his book in entirety. My 2 cents
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